Coronallacs trail, Andorra. #2
Day 2. Stage 2. Refugi de L'illa to Refugi de Juclá
We were up at 5:30 am as planned. Quietly as we could we snuck out the bunk room with our bags into the main room of the refugi to prep by head torch and get going.
Outside we didn’t need the head torches because dawn was giving us enough light. We had a 1100ft + climb ahead of us to the highest point on the trip.
It was cold, around 6℃ (Feels like 3 ℃). Warm enough if you’re moving but I’d packed with heat in mind so only had a long sleeved tee over my t-shirt and the breeze cut through. I had warm evening or emergency layers but nothing just the right balance.
In 45min of easy hiking we’d reached the summit - Collada dels Pessons 9,232ft (2814m) above sea level. The highest I’ve ever been by foot. We stopped to enjoy, take some photos and generally celebrate what we were doing - it was stunning!
We took it easy down the descent, easy was the plan for the day after the rush yesterday. We started early and should have plenty of time today for the two stages.
We traversed miles of grassy trails full of rocks, streams and lakes in nature that felt untouched.
One thing that hit me was the sound. Silence! unless close to a stream there was complete and utter silence. Nothingness, almost like watching a film on mute but less. I had never heard such silence before if hearing silence is even a thing. It was amazing.
The terrain started to change into a ski resort, seemingly abandoned during summer. Gravel paths appeared and we were able to increase the pace but it was short lived before we had a distraction;
Is that a bird over there on that rock?
My first thought was confusion. I couldn't see anything around and I thought it was a bit early for Tom to be hallucinating. He pointed it out and Matt and I clocked on - there was a big eagle sitting on a rock!
Opposite we saw something else “there’s a penguin” I jokingly said, trying to make out the fat shape. It was a marmot! I’d never seen a marmot before. I didn’t even know how to say the word; “Ma’m-MUT”, I think.
We moved on from animal spotting to run some single track cutting into the hillside and leading us towards a supermarket en-route.
It was about 9:30 am and we weren’t expecting to pass this (supermarket) during opening hours. This was great news for getting some food and drink. At the time I was confused how we’d managed to misjudge the distance and time to get here when scrutinising our schedule previously.
Leaving the supermarket break it was climbing time. Up the road and into a steep grassy climb.
Immediately the air felt thinner and colder, again. I felt like I was breathing fast, panting. Turning to look back it was amazing how tiny the supermarket town had become so quickly and we could see the mountains we’d descended in the distance behind. The terrain was easy to move over but the climb was the longest of the day so far (about 2,000 ft over 2 miles).
The top made for some amazing views as we were about to descend again. The terrain was all good and from what I recall we were moving well although no miles were fast.
An unessecary out and back?
I’d identified on the map that the next refugi was an out and back and slightly off route. Sliding around the suunto app on my phone it looked like maybe 0.7 miles each way. A mile and a half of time we could get back… that’s a lot in the mountains.
We had clocked onto the fact that we weren’t doing well for time. OK, just, but not as comfortable as expected and we started to discuss the idea of skipping the refugi to make up time.
The idea of falling behind only became worse as the terrain became much more difficult and slow moving.
We agreeded we’d stop for a break either way, but debated:
Matt definitely wanted to skip the refugi and gain time.
I was split, I really wanted lunch but also could have eaten what was in my pack and I wanted to gain time.
Tom definitely wanted to stop at the refugi, partly as I think he seemed most keen at collecting our stamps and getting that ‘special prize’ from the tourist office.
We reached the point of the trail that deviates to the refugi. We could see it. Nothing like 0.7 miles, how did I get that so wrong? BUT. It was a steep climb we could do without and we weren’t even sure what food would be on offer.
“Let’s visit it”. Matt had the genius idea to dump our bags by a rock to save lugging those up and down the climb to the refugi. We decided nobody was likely to take anything but made sure go pro’s etc were out of sight and to keep our passports on us.
We skipped up the climb/scramble to the refugi and ordered some food. No pizza as they were cooking for a big party, sandwiches only but combined with cold drinks it was worth it.
“Did you hear what she said?!”
said Matt, referring to the lady at the refugi counter.
”Yeah!” she said “WOW, you’re strong!” upon realising we’d arrive from I’Illa.
She didn’t know we’d started at 6am but it made us feel great.
Day 2, stage 2 to come…